(especially FD+C Red No. 6, D+C Green No. 4)
“In Dry skin treatments or colorants in hair dyes. Carcinogen banned in the European Union.” – Gill Deacon, “There’s Lead in Your Lipstick” page 299.
“Made from bituminous coal, this stuff is used to treat patches of psoriasis and dandruff. It is also used to beat itches and is found in many of the synthetic colours in cosmetics (in which case, it won’t say it on the label). It is found in dandruff and psoriasis shampoo, anti-itch creams, cosmetics, hair dyes, and sometimes mouthwash and toothpaste.
Risk factor: High. Coal tar is a known human carcinogen according to a half dozen health and environmental agencies in the Western world. In lab tests, it was shown to cause cancerous tumours when injected under the skin of animals. It’s also an eye and skin irritant. Several countries have it on their lists of banned or restricted ingredients.” – Siobhan O’Conner and Alexandra Spunt “No More Dirty Looks” page 38.
About COAL TAR: Coal Tar is a thick liquid or semi-solid obtained as a by-product in the destructive distillation of bituminous coal. In the United States, Coal Tar may be used as an active ingredient in OTC drug products. When used as an active drug ingredient, the established name is Coal Tar.
Function/use(s): Antidandruff Agent; Cosmetic Biocide; Denaturant
Contamination concerns: BENZO[A]PYRENE
Other HIGH concerns: Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive)
Other MODERATE concerns: Persistence and bioaccumulation
Other LOW concerns: Ecotoxicology, Data gaps
Synonym(s): TAR, COAL; COAL TAR SOLUTION; CARBO-CORT; COAL TAR SOLUTION USP; COAL TAR, AEROSOL; CRUDE COAL TAR; ESTAR (SKIN TREATMENT) ; IMPERVOTAR; KC 261; LAVATAR; PICIS CARBONIS
from: http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient.php?ingred06=701514
P-phenylenediamine and colours identified by “C.I.” followed by a five digit number.
In addition to coal tar dyes, natural and inorganic pigments used in cosmetics are also assigned Colour Index numbers (in the 75000 and 77000 series, respectively).
Use in Cosmetics
Coal tar-derived colours are used extensively in cosmetics, generally identified by a five-digit Colour Index (C.I.) number. The U.S. colour name may also be listed (“FD&C” or “D&C” followed by a colour name and number). P-phenylenediamine is a particular coal tar dye used in many hair dyes. Darker hair dyes tend to contain more phenylenediamine than lighter colours.
Health and Environmental Hazards
Coal tar is a mixture of many chemicals, derived from petroleum, Coal tar is recognized as a human carcinogen and the main concern with individual coal tar colours (whether produced from coal tar or synthetically) is their potential to cause cancer. As well, these colours may be contaminated with low levels of heavy metals and some are combined with aluminum substrate. Aluminum compounds and many heavy metals are toxic to the brain. Some colours are not approved as food additives, yet they are used in cosmetics that may be ingested, like lipstick. (In the U.S. colour naming system, “FD&C” indicates colours approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for use in foods, drugs, and cosmetics. “D&C” colours are not approved for use in food.)
P-phenylenediamine has been linked to tumours in laboratory tests conducted by the U.S. National Cancer Institute. A review of the epidemiologic literature confirmed statistically significant associations between hair dye use and development of several types of cancer although the authors concluded that the evidence was insufficient to determine that the hair dyes had caused the cancers. A separate study found that women who used hair dyes — especially over extended periods — had an increased risk of developing non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma (cancer of the lymph system). However, there is conflicting evidence, with other research suggesting no strong association between cancer and hair dye use. The International Agency for Research on Cancer therefore concluded that personal use of hair dyes is currently “not classifiable as to its carcinogenicity in humans.” The European Union classifies p-phenylenediamine as toxic (in c ontact with skin, by inhalation, or if swallowed), and as very toxic to aquatic organisms, noting that it may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.
Regulatory Status
Several coal tar dyes are prohibited on Health Canada’s Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist and Canada’s Cosmetic Regulations prohibit all but seven of these colours in eye makeup and other products used in the area of the eye. However, dozens of coal tar-derived colours are still widely used in other cosmetics. Some have been flagged for future assessment under the government’s Chemicals Management Plan.
P-phenylenediamine is permitted only in hair dyes and must be accompanied by a warning that the product “contains ingredients that may cause skin irritation on certain individuals” and if used near the eyes “may cause blindness.”
Coal tar dyes are colour ingredients that were originally made from chemicals extracted from coal tar, and the distillation process was not 100% effective so harmful impurities were often left in the product.
Although the coal tar dyes in use today are no longer made from coal tar, but made synthetically, the name has stuck. These ingredients have a high level of quality and purity, as they undergo a refining process to remove any unacceptable impurities. Some coal tar dyes, like para-phenylenediamine (also known as PPD), and others used in oxidative hair dyes still pose a health risk because they are known sensitizers when used on the skin (they cause allergic reactions upon repeat exposure).
The Cosmetic Regulations set out the prohibitions and other restrictions for coal tar dyes such as PPD. Most coal tar dyes are safe for use in cosmetics; however those coal tar dyes that have been found to be unsafe are prohibited. For example, sensitizing coal tar dyes are not permitted in the area of the eye. Also, coal tar dyes used in permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes must have cautionary statements on the inner and outer labels to warn consumers that the ingredients may cause skin irritation in certain individuals, and that a patch test should be done before every use.
The Government of Canada is currently reviewing many colourants under the Chemicals Management Plan. If any of these ingredients are found to be unsafe, Health Canada will add them to the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist.
from: http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/cosmet-person/cons/safety-innocuite-eng.php#a42
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